I didn't exactly go about it efficiently where I wanted to experiment on some parts off the car. I just wish I had a used for Krylon Fusion Mystic Prism.For the past couple weeks I have been slaving away on the 50$ Rustoleum Paint Job. It's kind of nice to try some of these new products. Obviously Rustoleum is designed to stop rust. I really like the Krylon over the Rustoleum because it sets up very quickly, low oder and goes on very smooth. [ I even tried Krylon Fusion for Plastic to paint over a strip of formica on the cabinet that I didn't want to roll or brush. Not 100% original but I must say that it's satin enough that it looks really good. I ended up sand blasting those and used Krylon "Metallic" finish spray that someone had at work. There are two aluminum "satin" silver plates that go on the door. Let's hope it looks just as good as my Ms. However, I am kind of impatient sometimes and decided to just scuff it up and move forward. Rustoleum product support said to let it dry 48 hours, scuff it up w/ 220 and clean it and let it sit another 48 hours. However, if it looks good I'll leave it alone. If I feel daring I "might" put on one more coat Monday night. This time it appears to have no shinny spots and is much more consistent. About 10 minutes ago I scuffed up the paint with 220 Grit sand paper, wiped it down and dried it good and sprayed it again. I brought the door home from work Friday so I could work on it over the weekend. "A container of ashes might one day be thrown from the sky, which could burn the land and boil the oceans." "Near the day of Purification, there will be cobwebs spun back and forth in the sky." "If we dig precious things from the land, we will invite disaster." "Good heavens, Miss Sakamoto! You're beautiful!" I was try to give you a subtle hint, the word is "Shiny", not "Shinny". Start spraying before the surface starts, stop spraying after you're past the surface. Swing the can in a straight line, from the upper body not the wrist or the elbow. Most likely caused by "arcing" the can over the surface, which will cause the can to be closer to the surface at the center then the edges. Stripes, you are not spraying at the same distance from the surface. Spots, you "stalled" while painting, keep it moving. Paint booth usage should give you a more consistent finish.ĭo the shiny parts look like spots, or stripes? I've already roughed the hell out of the Formica w/ 220 and wiped it down a few times so I just hope that priming the Formica is good enough to prevent the top coat from pealing. After everything sets up for a day or two I'll be painting the orange. I'm not having issues painting however I've fixed any damaged areas on the cabinet (corners, ply separating, etc.) and we now are ready to paint all the black tonight and hopefully prime the orange Formica tomorrow or Sunday. maybe the fans are sucking up way too much and preventing the texture from laying even. I actually think that some of my problem might be caused from turning the spray booth on at work which the last time I did it at home. If I let it sit until Monday do you guys think that if I reapply 1-2 more light coats that it will cover the shinny area's. I have a very shinny area so I'm not 100% sure how to flatten it out. I'm thinking of sticking it in one of our industrial ovens (not for cooking) to make sure it sets up, wet sanding it and starting over. I would like to know your paint setup, you seem to be having problems, if i recall correctly you were having problems painting the cabinet.įor the coin door it has a very shinny area so I'm not 100% what I want to do. Make sure to read the instructions! On hammer and crinkle type finishes I don't sand between the coats, it knocks down the finish you are trying to achieve. Great paint, you have to have several light coats, let it flash off between coats (solvent evaporates). Quote spacescape However, I have some shinny areas on the door.
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